Set against a soundtrack of throaty sea lions and the aromas from a phalanx of clam chowder vendors, the picturesque wharf works on a few levels. It works culinarily, with a rich range of seafood-driven restaurants, including destination-worthy Old FIsherman’s Grotto and Abalonetti’s. It works oceanically, with award-winning whale-watching tours leaving multiple times daily. It works sweetly, with a bunch of over-the-top candy retailers. And it works kitsch-ly, by way of shops where dozens of keepsakes beg for a place in your home.